
As a landscape
photographer, I am frequently striving to capture the maximum depth of
field possible, but as is true of all photography, compromises need to
be made on the path to the sharpest images. The widest DOF is obtained
at high f stops (small apertures), but with ever smaller apertures
diffraction begins to affect sharpness, making images progressively
softer.
Yikes, Physics
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| http://innovativescience.blogspot.com/2011/02/diffraction.html |
Diffraction is a property
of light related to its behavior as a wave. Light passing through a
lens does not focus sharply to a point, but spreads out as it is bent
around the hard edges of the iris. The result is a soft bull’s eye,
which is called the “Airy disk” and results in a softening of the detail
in an image. The name “Airy disk” may seem remarkably fanciful,
especially originating from optical
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| Airey Disk:Wikipedia |
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| Starburst Effect |
The Test
Fortunately, testing lens'
for their sharpest f-stop is not
difficult. You start with a
target that is flat and has sharp detail. I used an antique map of
Vermont and New Hampshire. I taped it to the glass on a photograph
hanging in the kitchen and then set my camera on a tripod, aligning it
so that the plane of the sensor was parallel to the target. I precisely
focused on the map using the camera's Live View and used mirror lock-up
and a cable release to avoid any vibration. With the camera set on
aperture preferred, I recorded a series of images covering the full
range from wide open to the smallest aperture. The result was a
collection of images that I could quickly scan to find where image
sharpness began to break down as the f stop increased.
difficult. You start with a
target that is flat and has sharp detail. I used an antique map of
Vermont and New Hampshire. I taped it to the glass on a photograph
hanging in the kitchen and then set my camera on a tripod, aligning it
so that the plane of the sensor was parallel to the target. I precisely
focused on the map using the camera's Live View and used mirror lock-up
and a cable release to avoid any vibration. With the camera set on
aperture preferred, I recorded a series of images covering the full
range from wide open to the smallest aperture. The result was a
collection of images that I could quickly scan to find where image
sharpness began to break down as the f stop increased.
The Results
Actually I was pleased to
find that the loss of sharpness at
small apertures was not as bad as I
had expected. I was able to identify the optimal f stop (usually
between f/10 & f/16), but I also got a feeling for how far I could
reasonably push the aperture when I needed more depth of field. For my
100mm Macro, I found that the images were sharpest around f/8 - f/14, but that I
could still get reasonable results up to at least f/22. It is important
to remember that this analysis does not take into account the power of
sharpening algorithms to salvage sharpness when the results are
marginal.
small apertures was not as bad as I
had expected. I was able to identify the optimal f stop (usually
between f/10 & f/16), but I also got a feeling for how far I could
reasonably push the aperture when I needed more depth of field. For my
100mm Macro, I found that the images were sharpest around f/8 - f/14, but that I
could still get reasonable results up to at least f/22. It is important
to remember that this analysis does not take into account the power of
sharpening algorithms to salvage sharpness when the results are
marginal.
Landscape Dilemma
So what can we do when extreme depth of field is needed? Sadly I can’t afford a tilt-shift lens, but, now that I know how far I can stop down before diffraction significantly rears its ugly head, I can more intelligently balance the impact of DOF vs. Sharpness and I can apply post processing sharpening to correct some of the problems. This is also a situation where focus stacking becomes extremely valuable. Multiple images at lower (and sharper) f stops, progressively focused through the scene, can be stacked and blended to get deep DOF with consistent sharpness. The digital camera once again defeats the apparently immutable laws of physics – take THAT Newton!
Photography is always a matter of compromise as our artistic vision collides with the limitations imposed by the physical properties of light, optics and camera sensors. How these limitations are balanced has much to do with the outcome and knowing the most about the capabilities of your equipment is the key to striking the best balance. Testing your lens' for their optimal sharpness is just one piece of the necessary homework required to get the most from your equipment and the best expression of your vision from the digital Camera.
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So what can we do when extreme depth of field is needed? Sadly I can’t afford a tilt-shift lens, but, now that I know how far I can stop down before diffraction significantly rears its ugly head, I can more intelligently balance the impact of DOF vs. Sharpness and I can apply post processing sharpening to correct some of the problems. This is also a situation where focus stacking becomes extremely valuable. Multiple images at lower (and sharper) f stops, progressively focused through the scene, can be stacked and blended to get deep DOF with consistent sharpness. The digital camera once again defeats the apparently immutable laws of physics – take THAT Newton!
Photography is always a matter of compromise as our artistic vision collides with the limitations imposed by the physical properties of light, optics and camera sensors. How these limitations are balanced has much to do with the outcome and knowing the most about the capabilities of your equipment is the key to striking the best balance. Testing your lens' for their optimal sharpness is just one piece of the necessary homework required to get the most from your equipment and the best expression of your vision from the digital Camera.





