Like No Place on Earth
It
is now about four years ago that Susan and I went on a dream trip, 600
mile off the coast of Ecuador, to the magical Galapagos Islands. It
was our most unique journey and I'm not sure why it has taken me so long
to finish posting about the experience. Back last spring, I posted
about the first part of the trip, and I' am only now getting back to
complete the story. I'm giving a talk next week about the Galapagos to a
women's group in Keene and that finally gave me the excuse to finish
part 2.
In December of 2010 we joined a
photography cruise among the Galapagos Archipelago aboard the National
Geographic ship the Endeavour. This trip focused on photography with
the timing and pace of our explorations arranged to meet the needs of
serious photography. The Galapagos is a paradise for wildlife and
nature photographers and in this discussion of the second half of our
trip I will focus on the images. Check out my first post for more
information about the trip and the Galapagos Islands. I will only
repeat my admonition from last time. If you have a chance to go to the
Galapagos, don't think, just go!
Isabela and Fernandina Islands
Cave Along the Punta Vincente Roca |
On
the morning of our fourth day we had traveled around the north end of
Isabela, the largest island of the Galapagos Archipelago and in the
process crossed the equator twice. In the morning we boarded Zodiacs
to explore the rugged lava cliffs of Punta Vincente Roca. The western
islands are
younger with more active vulcanism resulting in a terrain
that is dominated by barren lava flows, but, because of cool, nutrient
rich, up-flowing currents, the shore was teaming with wildlife. The show
included Sea Lions, Marine Iguanas, Sea Turtles, and the Galapagos
Penguins. Later we snorkeled among the amazing variety of ocean fauna.
I had a
chance to tail a giant Sea Turtle and watch schools of fish
reacting to the presence of Black Tipped Sharks. In the afternoon, we
explored Punta Espinosa on Fernandina Island. The ropy lava flows
provided perfect cover for the carpets of Marine Iguana, and we got a
close look at the comic appearing Flightless Cormorants. These birds
improved their swimming capabilities by evolving away from winged
flight. Their useless stubby wings look ridiculous, but, since the
birds have no predators that might require an airborne escape, wings no
longer provided a survival advantage .
Wing Drying
Galapagos Peguin |
Cormorant "Wings" |
Wing Drying
Santa Cruz (Day 5)
Puerto Ayora Fish Market with Friends |
Baby Tortoise Learning a Lesson at the Darwin Station |
After a touch of civilization in Puerto
Ayora, we traveled into the damp and surprisingly verdant highlands of
Santa Cruz and had the opportunity to mingle with migrating Tortoises.
These magnificent ancient beasts travel at a glacial pace across the
fields and seemed little concerned with our approach as long as we
matched their slogging pace. We discovered that the migrating Tortoises
are all male. The females are smart enough to let the males do all
the work.
A Quick Video of Slow Tortoises
Cerrro Dragon and Sombrero Chino (Day 6)
Cerro
Dragon is know for its restored population of Land Iguanas.
The color
of these animals has evolved to match the arid brown soil of their
surroundings. They provide a stark contrast with the black Marine
Iguanas that bask on the lava flows by the sea. Cerro Dragon means
"Dragon Hill" and refers to a beautiful peak which dominates the island.
I was lucky to catch a Gray Pelican lounging in front of the hill
during our sunrise visit to the beach.
Land Iguana |
The afternoon included more snorkling and a lovely sunset across the aptly named Sombrero Chino, or "Chinese Hat".
Bartolome & Santiago (Day 7)
In
the early morning of our last full day of the cruise, we climbed the
359 foot peak on little Bartolome Island. To avoid erosion the trail
has a wooden walkway with 372 steps. The climb was challenging, but the
view was well worth the effort. We were treated to a stark volcanic
panorama across the moon-like landscape of the eastern shore of Santiago.
Later we had time to leisurely explore two beaches populated by
frolicking Sea Lions, Sally Lightfoot Crabs, Sea Turtles and flocks of
Frigates and other sea birds.
Sally Lightfoot Crab |
Lava Heron |
Yellow Warbler |
American Oystercatcher |
The next morning we were back in
Baltra. After the flight to Guayaquil Susan and I flew to Ecuador's
mountain capital of Quito to spend a couple of days with friends who
live in the city. We then spent a few days birding at Maquipucuna in
the Andean cloud forest. It was a fascinating experience, but that will
be another story, or blog.
Our Galapagos trip
was truly a once in a lifetime experience. Lindblad and National
Geographic did a wonderful job designing a cruise with the serious
photographer in mind. And the food was great. We will be doing another
Lindblad photography cruise to Alaska this summer and I expect a
fantastic experience, but it seems unlikely to match our cruise among
the totally unique Galapagos Islands.
I can only repeat, if you get a chance to go to the Galapagos, Don't Think, Just GO!
For more images of the Galapagos :
Jeffrey Newcomer
No comments:
Post a Comment