Isabela and Fernandina Islands
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| Cave Along the Punta Vincente Roca |
On
the morning of our fourth day we had traveled around the north end of
Isabela, the largest island of the Galapagos Archipelago and in the
process crossed the equator twice. In the morning we boarded Zodiacs
to explore the rugged lava cliffs of Punta Vincente Roca. The western
islands are
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| Galapagos Peguin |
younger with more active vulcanism resulting in a terrain
that is dominated by barren lava flows, but, because of cool, nutrient
rich, up-flowing currents, the shore was teaming with wildlife. The show
included Sea Lions, Marine Iguanas, Sea Turtles, and the Galapagos
Penguins. Later we snorkeled among the amazing variety of ocean fauna.
I had a
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| Cormorant "Wings" |
chance to tail a giant Sea Turtle and watch schools of fish
reacting to the presence of Black Tipped Sharks. In the afternoon, we
explored Punta Espinosa on Fernandina Island. The ropy lava flows
provided perfect cover for the carpets of Marine Iguana, and we got a
close look at the comic appearing Flightless Cormorants. These birds
improved their swimming capabilities by evolving away from winged
flight. Their useless stubby wings look ridiculous, but, since the
birds have no predators that might require an airborne escape, wings no
longer provided a survival advantage .
Wing Drying
Santa Cruz (Day 5)
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| Puerto Ayora Fish Market with Friends |
Although
the Galapagos Islands are 97.5% uninhibited park land there are a few
small settlements. Puerto Ayora is a town of 15,000 people on Santa Cruz
Island. It is the home of the Charles Darwin Research Station which
works to understand and protect the unique qualities of
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Baby Tortoise Learning a Lesson
at the Darwin Station |
the Archipelago.
The station is noted for its
Giant Tortoise breeding program and,
until recently, the presence of "Lonesome George". George was the
last surviving member of the subspecies of Pinta Island Tortoises.
Sadly years of attempts to crossbreed George with willing mates failed
and he died, without progeny, on June 24th 2012. He was over 100 years
old.
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| Lonesome George, Rest in Peace |
After a touch of civilization in Puerto
Ayora, we traveled into the
damp and surprisingly verdant highlands of
Santa Cruz and had the opportunity to mingle with migrating Tortoises.
These magnificent ancient beasts travel at a glacial pace across the
fields and seemed little concerned with our approach as long as we
matched their slogging pace. We discovered that the migrating Tortoises
are all male. The females are smart enough to let the males do all
the work.
A Quick Video of Slow Tortoises
Cerrro Dragon and Sombrero Chino (Day 6)
Cerro
Dragon is know for its restored population of Land Iguanas.
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| Land Iguana |
The color
of these animals has evolved to match the arid brown soil of their
surroundings. They provide a stark contrast with the black Marine
Iguanas that bask on the lava flows by the sea. Cerro Dragon means
"Dragon Hill" and refers to a beautiful peak which dominates the island.
I was lucky to catch a Gray Pelican lounging in front of the hill
during our sunrise visit to the beach.
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| Dragon Hill and Grey Pelican |
The afternoon included more snorkling and a lovely sunset across the aptly named Sombrero Chino, or "Chinese Hat".
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| Sunset Over Chinese Hat |
Bartolome & Santiago (Day 7)
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| From Bartolome Peak |
In
the early morning of our last full day of the cruise, we climbed the
359 foot peak on little Bartolome Island. To avoid erosion the
trail
has a wooden walkway with 372 steps. The climb was challenging, but the
view was well worth the effort. We were treated to a stark volcanic
panorama across the moon-like landscape of the eastern shore of Santiago.
Later we had time to leisurely explore two beaches populated by
frolicking Sea Lions, Sally Lightfoot Crabs, Sea Turtles and flocks of
Frigates and other sea birds.
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| Sally Lightfoot Crab |
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| Lava Heron |
Our last hike
of the cruise was along the shore of Puerto Egas on the western side of
Santiago. The point overlooks Buccaneer Cove, which was once a favorite
anchorage for pirates. The hike was notable for the wide variety of
sea and coastal birds wandering the shore. These
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| Yellow Warbler |
included Yellow
Warblers, Lava Herons and American Oystercatchers. The Sea Lions
appeared to be enjoying the warm early evening light, basking on the
Lava rocks and gazing at the
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| American Oystercatcher |
surf as the swells crashed against the
shore. It was a lovely evening and a fitting conclusion to an amazing
trip. We all were reluctant to board the Zodiacs for the ride back to
Endeavor.
The next morning we were back in
Baltra. After the flight to Guayaquil Susan and I flew to Ecuador's
mountain capital of Quito to spend a couple of days with friends who
live in the city. We then spent a few days birding at Maquipucuna in
the Andean cloud forest. It was a fascinating experience, but that will
be another story, or blog.
Our Galapagos trip
was truly a once in a lifetime experience.
Lindblad and National
Geographic did a wonderful job designing a cruise with the serious
photographer in mind. And the food was great. We will be doing another
Lindblad photography cruise to Alaska this summer and I expect a
fantastic experience, but it seems unlikely to match our cruise among
the totally unique Galapagos Islands.
I can only repeat, if you get a chance to go to the Galapagos, Don't Think, Just GO!
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| Surf on James Bay |
For more images of the Galapagos :
Jeffrey Newcomer
